SPANNERMAN’S SOAPBOX
There’s a letter somewhere in this month’s column from a bloke after bits for his ’81 Honda and it reminded me of the fabulous service offered by Puds Four Parts in Yarram, a small town down Gippsland way. Pud (Andrew to those who don’t know him well) is devoted to the single-overhead-cam Honda Four bikes and his business is a one stop shop for Honda Four restorations. It means you can safely buy an old Honda with a few problems and know you’ll be able to get the bits to fix it. I wish it was true of all bikes but it isn’t. I share the frustration many of you experience when you’re told over a counter that parts for bikes less than ten years old, let alone 40 years, are no longer available. Businesses like Puds need to be treasured and if you’re thinking of buying an older bike either as a daily runner or as a project, you’d be wise to see if the same kind of support exists for your model. Old BMWs are well looked after, as are Triumphs and Nortons, but don’t try to restore something like a Honda CBX750 from the mid ‘80s or, say, a Kawasaki Z1100A. Bikes usually become cult classics for a good reason (Yamaha SR500 for example) and it pretty-much ensures on-going parts supply.

LISTEN UP, DUDES…
I subscribe to and enjoy MT but rarely does something get up my nose sufficiently to consider giving you my comments. This is a first. I love to see girls riding bikes – any bikes. I’ve taught my wife and daughter to ride. My comment to Cathy Hunter (#223) is this: if the guys you are riding with or listening to are making you feel inferior because of your choice of bike, you are with the wrong guys.
My wife, who is about to turn 60, has been on a Yamaha FZS600 for the past eight years and loves it but only became really comfortable and confident when we had it lowered. The seat was scalloped, the rear suspension lowered and the forks were readjusted on the triple clamps. The sidestand then had to be shortened and the centrestand then became a problem as the bike had to be lifted higher to get the bike up. The result was a bike that bottomed on speed bumps and was unsuitable for taller and heavier family members and for pillioning.
She now has a stock-standard Honda DN-01 and loves it, plus we can all ride it. There are several real bikes in this category (Burgman 650, Piaggio MP3400 and Gilera 500).
Peter Thoeming of Australian Road Rider recently questioned in writing why we needed motorcycles with clutches these days. If you’re comfortable and enjoy riding your DN-01, Cathy, stick with it. If anything, it’s a bike ahead of its time. Change the guys, not the bike!
Rick Holland, eastlaketinaroo@activ8.net.au

I got the impression from Cathy’s letter, Rick, that she was more curious about bikes and riding rather than being bullied into changing bikes by her philistine mates. She’s new to the scene and wants to broaden her range of experiences. Ideally, like your missus, she should probably have ended up with a DN-01 rather than starting out on one. It will be a hard act to follow.

You also make a good point about the consequences of lowering a motorcycle. It’s a last resort for short people as it does affect ground clearance, cornering clearance and suspension travel. It has to be done properly as well: just dropping the triple clamps farther down the forks will change the carefully thought-out chassis settings and may have seriously adverse consequences in the handling and stability departments.
Lowering is, however, a way for shorties to expand their choice of bike. There’s some irony in the fact that improvements in chassis design and tyre technology have seen bikes get taller (it’s all about cornering clearance) to the point where you have to be over six foot to be able to ride them. Short people like going fast, too.
Oh, and if you’re reading this Cathy, another bike you might consider is a second-hand Kawasaki W650. These are beautiful, traditional bikes with a seat height of 800mm.



FRESH WIND
I recently purchased a Kawasaki Zephyr 1100 from a local bike shop. The more I ride it the more I love it. One problem I’m having, though, is it’s hard to start when cold. The starter motor seems to labour and I’m wondering if it’s cranking the engine fast enough to fire it up quickly. I’ve cleaned the carbs and replaced the plugs (all eight of them). I thought about valve clearances but it doesn’t pop or fart at all once started. Do these things need vacuum to get fuel into the carbs via that diaphragm-thingy in the fuel tap?
I had it dyno tuned and picked up nearly 10hp at 5500rpm (beautiful). It’s back to as-new specs in terms of power and torque output. Will it become collectable? For five grand, I think I stole it. What do you reckon?
Locky Pearson, Lachlan.pearson@otmail.com

The Zephyr range has a mixed reputation, Locky, but the engine in the 1100 was the pick of them in terms of reliability. Your bike is unlikely to have the original battery which would have had sufficient cranking amps to excite the rest of the mechanicals. You can find out if this is the problem by starting your bike from cold using jumper leads connected to a car. Connect the red cable to the positive terminal of the car battery and the positive terminal of your bike battery. The black cable should be connected to the negative terminal of the car battery and the other end connected to an exposed part of the bike’s engine or frame. Run the car engine for a couple of minutes before you attempt to start the bike.
If it instantly solves the problem, you might need to start saving for a bike battery that matches the original specifications. If it makes no difference, it’s back to the drawing board. Does the engine have any modifications that would affect fuel mixture (aftermarket air filters or exhaust system)? Are the float heights right in the carbs? Is the choke working properly?
Five grand is cheap for the performance you get, isn’t it. I’m not surprised you’re happy with your purchase. There are lots of bikes from the ‘90s now on the market that provide tremendous value-for-money. Most engines are likely to be in good condition as if they’re serviced regularly, they’re very hard to hurt. What gets tired is usually the suspension and it’s worth spending some of the money you saved in the first place on a refresh.


TWO FOR THE PRICE OF ONE
I have just bought a Yamaha TDM900 which I love, but I notice it’s a bit snatch at low revs. I’ve seen a few forums on the internet which suggest an air box modification that fixes the problem. They suggest removing the hose that goes to the thingy (forgive the technical talk) on top of the airbox which opens and closes the flap. Apparently this “thing” keeps the flap closed until 4000rpm and then it opens. By removing this hose and plugging it, the flap stays open all the time and the bike is more responsive at low revs. My local Yamaha man suggested this was not a good idea and would void the warranty. Does this modification work or do you have a better solution? I suppose I could fit pipes and a Power Commander but this seems like an expensive solution.
I also have a fantastic Kawasaki 2001 W650 which I love, but the previous owner has changed the rear rim size and it’s now running a Battlax BT45R 140/80 – 17 and on the front is a K81 TT100 410H 19. Over about 100km/h, the front end is a bit twitchy and it weaves a bit. Both tyres are new. Is this problem caused by the rim size at the back or the TT100?
Chris Betts, veurmanbetts@optusnet.com.au

There was a recall on TDMs related to a throttle sensor, Chris, and the symptom was the “snatch” you’re describing. If your bike is still under warranty, though, it suggests it’s relatively new and this shouldn’t be a problem. The airbox modification you refer to works and if it gets rid of your problem there’s no reason why you shouldn’t use it. It’s simple enough to reattach if you need to at a later date.

I wonder why the previous owner of your W650 changed the rear rim size? It can only have been for appearance. I know fat back tyres are fashionable but it’s another triumph (forgive the pun) of form over function. The original rear tyre size (130/80/18) would have been designed by Kawasaki to give the best result with the 100/90/19 front. Rear tyres are usually wider than fronts because bikes with a rider in place usually have a rearward weight bias. If you overdo it at the rear in terms of tyre section, the changes in the coefficient of friction will encourage understeer in corners. It can also affect directional stability by increasing the rear contact patch area relative to the front. All in all, a dog’s breakfast. See if you can locate an original wheel at a wreckers and you’ll be amazed at the difference it makes to how the bike tracks and goes around corners.
 

OUT OF THE WOODWORK
I read with interest your response recently to a letter on a 1982 Honda CB750K. I have an ’81 model in original condition except for a four-into-one exhaust system. Can you suggest a source for an original or reproduction four-into-four? Any thoughts on value?
Steve Sullivan, stancom@halenet.com.au

The early DOHC Honda 750s are becoming quite rare, Steve, so they will increase in value. At the moment you’d be looking at between $3000 and $3500 if it’s clean and straight. Be patient. They tended to wear out faster than the single cam Honda Fours because they encouraged riders to rev harder.

Pud’s Four Parts in Yarram, Victoria, (0351825704) has a massive collection of parts for the single cam 750s but some stuff for your bike as well, including chrome header pipes and the junction box. These are replica parts rather than the real deal but would be a good basis for a new exhaust system. He doesn’t have mufflers can discuss your options there if you ring him. The bits mentioned above will set you back about $800. Interestingly, he has an ex-police version of your bike with the fairing and panniers on it for sale for $4,000. Wouldn’t be a bad buy…

 

MORE ZEN
You’ve probably already received responses to your question regarding the identity of Robert Pirsig’s motorcycle. I recently read the book again, this time as a philosophy text having rejected it in the 1970s because what I really wanted to learn then was how to fix motorcycles.
There is a plethora of information on the Internet about Mr Pirsig and his trip along with pictures of his bike: a Honda CB77 Superhawk. The Superhawk and the CA77 “Dream” used a similar engine but, unlike the Superhawk, the Dream had a pressed steel frame and leading link-style front forks.
The CB77 has a web site dedicated to it (http://www.honda305.com). It, along with the 50cc Cub and the Isle of Man TT racers of the time, showcased Mr Honda’s brilliance as an engineer and innovator but I guess we all know that now as well.
Bruce Burton, bbu81657@bigpoond.net.au

Thanks for this, Bruce. Yes, we’ve had a lot of mail and emails about the Pirsig bike. As I said originally, it’s hard to understand, given the book’s title, why he didn’t bother to identify it himself. As you point out, of course, the book is really about life matters rather than mechanicals.

I’ve seen a paperback version of the book recently with an artist’s impression rather than a photograph on the cover. These are usually amusing if the artist doesn’t know anything about bikes as they often contain glaring technical errors like the exhausts exiting from the barrels rather than the heads and the cooling fins running vertically rather than horizontally. You often see the same stuff with cheap toy motorcycles. From memory, this artist’s impression wasn’t too bad but the illustration looked more like a CB450 than a CB77 which is how we all got into this debate in the first place. It is now, of course, forever settled: Pirsig’s bike was a Honda CB77 Superhawk.

 

 

WILL THEY FIT?

Just a quick one: a bloke has some Honda CB400N barrels and pistons for sale on eBay and says they may bolt up to the CB250N. Have you ever heard of this being done before? I’m aware they have different strokes but is it possible anyway?

You are quoted in the ad having said at some stage that it was a mere piston change to turn the 250 back into a 400 as they were only ever 250s for Aussie learner-legal reasons. According to my calculations, with the 250 stroke and 400 bore size, the capacity would only be 323cc anyway.
Jared Kerswell, roar20@optusnet.com.au

I’ve often said that the CB400N is a better learners bike than the CB250N, Jared, but I’ve never said you can put the 400 barrels and pistons on the 250.  The 400 has a bore and stroke of 70.5 x 50.6 mm and the 250’s specs are 62 x 44.4mm. It’s not a straight swap, I’m afraid. The complete engines, on the other hand, are, so maybe you should be looking out for one of them.

GOING BUSH
I’m 49 and have an 18 year-old son. He recently suggested we should both get dirt bikes which sounds like a great idea although it would mean I’d have to sell my ’97 Honda VFR750. It’s a great bike but I don’t get to ride it much. The last time I read a dirt bike magazine it was called “Trail and Track”. I guess it isn’t published any more but I found your mag and really enjoyed the read.
I’ve been riding bikes since I was 12 but haven’t ridden a dirt bike for 20 years. My son hasn’t ridden a bike at all. At this stage, we’re just thinking about having some fun at local riding parks and state parks. I’m after bikes that are reliable, have low maintenance and would be easy to work on. Our budget would be about $6000 – $7000 for both bikes. I’m 5’7” and weight 94kg and my son is 6’1” and weights 100kg.
Should we be looking for bikes that can be registered or straight-out dirt bikes? What are the advantages of one over the other? What size bikes and what particular models would suit us considering our size and riding experience? Can you suggest tracks that would be local to us? Where do you buy used dirt bikes? Many thanks, and hopefully you can help us to find the right bikes and get out on those tracks!
Jim Coutlis, Windsor, jim.cu@hotmail.com

You’re opening a can of worms here, Jim. Let’s start with registration. If the bikes you buy are registered, you can ride them to wherever the trails are. In many areas now, you can’t ride unless the bike is registered anyway. If your bikes are unregistered, you’ll need a suitable tow car and a trailer. You’ll probably find you go riding less because the logistics are more difficult and there are less places to ride. On the other side of the coin, unregistered bikes are a lot cheaper to buy because they usually don’t have lights and indicators and don’t have to be in the kind of condition necessary to pass mechanical inspections. It’s amazing how much life you can get out of a set of tyres if you don’t have to explain their condition to the police.

Off-road bikes tend to have a hard life mostly through being crashed continuously but also the dirt environment requires far more regular maintenance of chains and air-filters, something many owners overlook. This means good second-hand bikes are usually in short supply and tend to be expensive.
All the major Japanese manufacturers used to sell soft off-roaders, or road/trail bikes. These included Suzuki DR250s, Yamaha XT250s, Kawasaki KL250s and Honda XL250s. These were great compromise bikes which were handy as commuters but also competent in the trails. It was a huge market in the ‘80s but times have obviously changed. Harder-edged dirt bikes are still available new, of course, but they’re not cheap ($10,000) and are probably more bike than you and your son will want to explore. Honda discontinued the XL250 in ’99 (there was an electric start model called the Degree from ’95) and a late ‘90s XL would be a good buy at around $3000.
Another option would be a Suzuki DR-Z250. These are available new but an ’00 or ’01 model will set you back around $3500. The problem you’ll have is finding either an XL or DR-Z in the right condition.
I’m focusing on 250cc because the size would be right for both yourself and your son. You’ll appreciate the lack of weight when you’re in the bush but they’re still fast enough to get you to the bush in the first place. I’m also thinking road registered would be your best option.
Something else you should consider is the Chinese option. It’s a confused market at the moment because lots of people are bringing in lots of brands but there’s not much in the way of reputation or back-up. MT had a squirt recently on the Kinlon KBR200 which has ADR compliance. Check the last issue of MT #223 – it has a letter (page 57) from a Kinlon owner, Joe Crossman, who swears buy it. His has covered 20,000km so far with no trouble. We liked it as well in terms of value-for-money. There’s an ad on page 182 of the same issue offering new examples for $2890 ride away which, I presume, means registered, otherwise you wouldn’t be able to ride it away. Limitations with the Kinlon are a top speed of 100km/h and a practical cruising speed of around 80 which is a bit slow for safe freeway and highway work although great for leisurely touring on country back-roads.
Regarding where to buy, keep your eye on the private ads in MT (in #223 there was an ’87 Yamaha XT250 in “great” condition for $1600) and the dealer ads as well. Bikepoint.Com is also well worth a look.
Where you can ride will depend on whether or not you end up with registered bikes. It’s been so long since I’ve been in Windsor I can only remember it as farmland. Maybe things have changed. Try Pacific Park (ww.pacificpark.com.au) which is on the Hawkesbury River about 60km from Sydney.
Best of luck!

RETURN OF THE “REPAIRABLE WRITE-OFF”
Do I or don’t I? That question has been going through my head since I read your response to a question on repairable write-offs in the August issue.
I am a Melbourne-based motorcycle wholesaler and have been for 20 years now. I also have spent time working for one of Australia’s top insurance companies as a damage assessor.
Repairable write-offs are a direct initiative from the various state police organizations to try to stem the flow of “rebirthed” bikes. Insurance companies will always send their damaged bikes through to auctions labeled as such.
You failed to mention that all bikes listed as repairable write-offs are subject to a Vehicle Identification Verification test (VIV) which costs around $300. The bike must be left at the testing centre usually for a whole day and this is an inconvenience that your readers may like to be warned about.
When these bikes are VIV tested, you are required to present receipts for all parts and labour to satisfy the tester that no foul play has occurred. These testers will even go to lengths of forensically testing frame and engine numbers in an effort to eradicate rebirthed bikes.
While most people are honest and law-abiding (with the odd exception of an accidental wheelie now and then), there are scoundrels among us as well. The whole idea of labeling bikes “repairable write-offs” is not to make money by sellers but an attempt to stop illegal activities.
Dan Barber, dandog07@hotmail.com

Thanks for this, Dan. I was focusing more on the mechanical issues involved in repairing a bike that is an insurance write-off rather than the technical meaning of the term. For those still a little in the dark, “Rebirthing” is the name given to the practice of buying a wrecked bike and using its identity (a possible combination of compliance plate, frame number, engine number and registration) to give a stolen bike a new identity. It’s certainly harder to do this now with the “repairable write-off” scheme in place.

One last point: a VIV test will not tell you that the bike is in roadworthy condition and the points I made about repairing bikes written off by insurance companies still stand.